Sunday, July 31, 2022

Surfing lessons

I was going to be a natural surfer -- I just knew it. With a few instructions, I was going to be able to catch the waves and surf into the sunset. Just like that. Because I am an awesome surfer babe. 

So when Tim, Jonathan, and nephew Jake met up with Instructor Matt for our group surfing lesson, I was totally set to go. 

It turns out that surfing requires more muscles than you think it might. 

With the boards lying firmly on the sand on the shore, Matt showed us first how to stand up when the wave comes. Step one: do a pushup. Two: front leg forward. Three: into a squat. Four: stand up, but keep those knees bent. Go! Go! Go! And then if you don't fall off, you can turn it into a full burpee by jumping back down again. 

Ready?

Ok! Grab that board, and follow Matt into the ocean. Paddle! Paddle! Use those arms! 

Yikes! Wait, Matt, wait! My little arms don't paddle very fast! 

When we eventually made it out where the waves were big enough for beginners, Matt helped us take turns surfing. 

Jake was first, and he was completely awesome. 


Jake did have a slightly unfair advantage: he had taken lessons before. Sure his last lessons were five years ago when he was about eight years old. Jake was expected to be awesome, and he did not disappoint.


 

Tim?


 

Somewhat disappointing, Tim. 

 


Still disappointing. (Tim's the board in the middle there in that short video.)

And what about me? Me? The natural surfer with my innate awesome-surfing-ness? 


Ok that one didn't count. Try again.


So maybe I'm not a natural after all. 

Jonathan, though. Jonathan was unexpected. 

 

Up on his first try!


 Hang loose, surfer dudes and surfer photographer dudes. 


Tim did get it eventually. 

 


And I did get it eventually. 


 But maybe I'm not a total natural. 

After an hour, my arms were really, really, really tired, and my sinuses were full of salt water.

Time to go in, everyone, said Matt, after my final ride.

So I pointed to the shore, and I paddled. 

And paddled and paddled.

And stopped paddling because -- ow -- my shoulders were burning. 

Don't drag your arms while you rest, said Matt helpfully as he zoomed past me paddling his own board. You lose your momentum. 

So I paddled and lifted my arms onto the board, to keep momentum. 

I was basically stopped in the water. 

Surely it would be faster if I just jumped off and dragged the board back to shore. 

Nope. I can't touch the bottom. Yikes!

Paddle. Paddle. Paddle. Ow. Ow. Ow.

Finally back to shore, like a drowned rat. 

Matt saw me dragging the board onto the beach, stumbling a little.

Just leave it there, he said, I'll get it from here. 

Thank you, Matt. Thank you. I am going to fall over and die now. 

Not me, said Matt. Three more lessons to go! 

Wow. Matt is amazing.

There is a reason surfers look so fit. It is because they are fit. Because surfing is completely exhausting.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

what a great vacation! We loved every minute...except maybe when the car got sideswiped...still working on that, but it's coming)
So glad you all made it. Wish we could have stayed longer.
Great way to celebrate our 50th!
Love you all,
KP